100,000 Hydrangeas in full bloom, Tenjoyama Park, Yamanashi, Japan

Looking for a place to cool yourself down, but don't want to travel too far from Tokyo?

Well then, the most conveninent place to go from Tokyo would be the Kawaguchiko area of Yamanashi prefecture.

I think many of you know that I didn't like going to crowded places and places where I can see the mass groups of tourists. But, this time, I will introduce to you one place in this tourist-run area that will heal your soul and refreshes you up like new.

I am sure anyone who has been to the Kawaguchiko have at least once persuaded to take the Mount Kachi Kachi Ropeway (カチカチロープウェイ) to the top of the 1,100m tall Mount Tenjo where you are promised a breathtaking panoramic view of the Mt Fuji on its observation deck.

Yes, you can definitely get that breathtaking panoramic view of the Mt Fuji but that place is also extremely boring with one small building that doubles up as a souvenir shop and snack bar and a small shrine dedicated to a certain rabbit*.

The shrine is really cute though

There is nothing much to do except to look through one of the three binoculars. As for that panoramic view of the Mt Fuji, well... You can already do so by just being there in the Kawaguchiko area.

Oh well, we didn't know better and it's okay, I did the same mistake during my early days in Japan. But today, I encourage you to, instead of taking the cable car down, try to walk down the narrow and seemingly unkempt hiking trail. The whole descent takes about an hour through the forested mountain slope. But after 15mins on the trail downhill, you will be delighted because THIS is the view waiting for you.

Between mid-July to early August, you can see thousands of hydrangea on the slopes of Mount Tenjo and more at the Tenjoyama Park. The flowers like the summer fireworks, light up the mountain slopes with the brilliant colours of purple, red, blue and white. They looked like coloured sponges bobbing from the sea of green forest. The Tenjoyama Park is quiet and sitting in any of the benches can also give you breathtaking views of Mount Fuji. Personally, I feel that this park is the best place to view Mount Fuji.

After resting at the Tenjoyama Park, you can walk down further to this view of the mountain slope.

When you come down almost at the bottom of the mountain, there is another quiet and small Shinto prayer area and a rest stop.

I made a short stop here to say my thanks for letting me stay in this beautiful country before making my way back towards the train station

If you are using the retro buses along the Kawaguchiko Line, please get off at the Yuransen Ropeway Iriguchi bus stop. It is also possible to walk from Kawaguchiko Station to the ropeway station in about 15-20 minutes.

If you are planning to hike up the Mount Tenjo instead of taking the ropeway, it only takes one and half hour to get to the top of the Mount Tenjo observation area. The hiking course starts somewhere near the ropeway. If you are walking from the Kawaguchiko station, make sure to look for a row of blooming hydrangeas when you almost reach the entrance to the ropeway. There is a signboard that shows, "あじさいハイキングコース, Ajisai Hiking Course" and you will see a slightly steep road.

Properly marked signboard

Just follow that road. Soon, you will be surrounded by hydrangeas on both sides of the road and the road will soon lead you onto the hiking trail where the hydrangea bloom.

Hydrangea blooms on both sides of the road

This is where we want to get to

The map I got from the tourist office also had a clear direction which I have uploaded in this post. And yes, please wear your hiking shoes for this trail. Some parts of the trail are steep.

There is also another different trail starting from the rabbit shrine uphill which continues on to Mount Mitsutoge. This is also another popular day hiking trail with many good views of Mount Fuji. As I hike from the bottom of Mount Tenjo, I didn't try to hike to Mount Mitsutoge this time as it was a hot day and I was a bit exhausted from the hike.

The last time I wrote about how you can take a train and the highway bus from Shinjuku in this post. You can book the bus ticket online here (in English) or just go straight to the highway bus station in Shinjuku.

Image from Highway Bus website

*You can read the story about the rabbit on the Mount Kachi Kachi here.

In my opinion, the hydrangeas should be still blooming until the end of this week. You can still catch them if you go this weekend.

Happy hiking!

Autumn in Yatsugatake Highland

I had a little escape from the city to the mountains and this time, I am in the Yatsugatake mountain range. The name Yatsugatake literally means the eight peaks in Japanese language. However, the mountain range of Yatsugatake has more than eight peaks so the word 'yatsu' here doesn't merely means 'eight' but also the nuance of 'many' in Japanese language.

There is a cool legend behind these magnificent mountain ranges. It was said that Mt Yatsugatake was once just one tall mountain, very similar to Mt Fuji and was protected by a god. This issue doesn't sit well with the proud goddess of Mt Fuji. It wasn't long before the two protectors started to fight over the two mountains' height. Each insisted that one is taller than the other. The Buddha who was the judge of this conflict created a gutter between the two mountains. He then pours water into the gutter and the water flows from Mt Yatsugatake to Mt Fuji proving the former being the higher one. The goddess of Mt Fuji was angry to be proven wrong and struck Mt Yatsugatake multiple times with her magic long stick till the mountain become a chain of jagged mountains range as we see today. I think the goddess may have done a good deed by making Mt Yatsugatake and its surroundings more stunning.

Although this area used to be a wasteland, but today, it is a popular summer resort known for its natural surroundings, wildlife and greenery. One can enjoy bird watching, cycling, hiking and even star gazing as it has been found that the terrain of this place offers wide flat land which allows a 360 degree view of the skies. Nobeyama is the place for some serious star observation. Some hotels also have its own telescope for its guest.

Walking around this area has been therapeutic with lots of quiet pathways to walk and very few cars. I guess this place is busy, mostly during the summer. Also, due to the infrequency of public transportation in this area, less people will travel here after the peak season. It is absolutely a wonderful place for nature lovers, as the cabins of Yatsugatake are located in the woods with awesome views.

Like I said, this place is a heaven for those who love walking and strolling and the landscape is best to savour if you are not rushing for time (why would you while in the mountains?). Probably, it is a good idea to travel with a car as you will be able to drive on one of the most scenic roads, the Yatsugatake Kogen Line Road. The best time is of course in late Oct till Nov.

If you are travelling using the public transportation like me, then, it is wise to check the schedule for the train and bus before you head out.

The JR East Koumi line is also known as the Yatsugatake Kogen line is one of the most scenic train lines in Japan. The line starts from Kobuchizawa station in Yamanashi-ken and ends at the Komoro station in Nagano-ken with Nobeyama station being the highest JR station in Japan. This train ride is a must-ride train ride in Japan.

Just bring your camera or your favourite drink on board, sit back and enjoy your ride through the mountains of Yatsugatake.

Our cabin lodging in the mountains

Barbequeing our mushrooms as snack

Where is your favourite autumn spot in Japan? 

Autumn in Shosenkyo Gorge

This is my first time visiting the Shosenkyo Gorge and I must say that it is really worth the early morning rush in Shinjuku station.

The gorge is gorgeous that you can't stop clicking on your camera and it is also pretty well-known spot for viewing the autumn leaves so the tracks are pretty beaten by the tourists. But don't let that discourage you, it is really one of Japan's most beautiful places with a gorgeous waterfall, winding river, lofty cliffs and lots of interesting odd-shaped rocks.

It is a pleasant and easy walk along a 4km trail from the Sentagaki Waterfall following the Arakawa river.

I started my walk from the top, the Shosenkyo-takiue bus stop （昇仙峡 滝上バス停), and made my way downward the gorge. There is a cluster of souvenir shops that sell crystal rocks, wine and cafes near the bus stop.

From Shosenkyo- takiue bus stop, it is about 10mins walk to reach the Sentagaki Waterfall. The water is so clear and looks so invitingly cool (I bet it is very cold!). Luckily, it is not summer now because I will not hesitate to jump into that cascading waterfall.

While most people only walk the most popular section of the gorge which begins at Sengaｔaki Falls and stops at Green line Shosenkyo Bus stop (グリーンライン昇仙峡バス停) but I suggest that you continue walking downstream to Tenjinmori bus stop (天神森).

The trail continues on, weaving along the stream surrounded by unique-shaped rocks offering plentiful photography opportunities. No matter where you turn, you are bound to see something interesting to photograph, whether is the river, the cliffs or the tress.

Everything is so beautifully blended in that you just have to experience this place yourself and I can assure you that you will not be disappointed.

For me, breathing in the fresh air and be surrounded by the beautiful scenery is absolutely heaven.

To get to Shosenkyo from Shinjuku station, take the Super Azusa (スーパーあずさ) or Azusa (あずさ) trains heading towards Matsumoto (松本) to Kofu station (甲府). The journey is approximately 1 hour, 20 minutes.

For other ways to get to Shosenkyo Gorge, you can refer to this chart from JR East.

Once you reach Kofu station, take the Yamanashi Kotsu buses from the Kofu Station South Exit Bus Terminal 3. You can choose your bus stop according to how far you want to walk back down the gorge.

From Kofu station to Tenjinmori Bus stop, it takes 30 minutes (570 yen) and to Shosenkyo-takiue Bus Stop, it takes 60 minutes (870 yen).　There are plenty of maps to guide you on the gorge which can be found here from the Shosenkyo Kankokyoukai (昇仙峡観光協会）. 

Crazy, scary rides

I finally found my courage to say yes to the Fuji Q Highland. I believe most people in Japan know what Fuji Q Highland means. It is a themepark with really mind-boggling, gravity defying and impossible roller coaster rides. It is definitely not for the faint-hearted like me. The first ride scared the hell out of me but after a couple more, I began to trust my life to the superb safety of Japan’s themepark management, enjoying the crazy, scary rides with plenty of screaming all the way. Everyone should try it at least once.

 Amazingly scary even at night

 So beautiful at night

360 degrees view

 Enough to make your stomach flip!

 See what I meant by crazy?

Well, you might think that there is no way you are going to take that ride? Well, there is always a chicken way before boarding the ride but you don't want to do that :)