It's a wonderful white world

It's snowing! It's snowing! It's snowing! How I wish... Not in Tokyo at least. But I did go to a place where it is really snowing.

Welcome to Hakuba in Nagano! This town situated in the heart of the Japan Alps, is blessed with breathtaking panoramic views of an impressive mountain range and of course, plenty of light and dry snow (Yes, I tested the snow - it is the best type of snow that falls is light and dry, just like the type of snow in Hokkaido!)

In Tokyo, it is too early for snow. In fact, Tokyo is still sporting 11 - 5Celcius! I wished that we can skip to the part where Tokyo gets its almost-once-in-every-two years' white dusting (Yes, I kept a record of that too!).

Although I may sound that I love snow a lot but in reality, I am happy to see it only on the first 3 days of snow. After that, I will be begging for it to stop because it makes it difficult for me to wake up in the morning because I will be huddling inside the futon, savouring every bit of warmth and resisting any will to wake up for school. Not to mention, the amount of layers of clothing that you have to wear just to step out even for a simple plant watering session on your balcony.

Back to Hakuba, this ski town hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics for Alpine, Ski Jump and Cross country Skiing events. A big progress from its humble beginnings of being located along an ancient salt trade route between Matsumoto, a castle city and the Sea of Japan.

But the absolute awesomeness of this town apart from its numerous ski resorts is its abundant hot springs. All dotted around the town and high up in the mountains. What is more perfect than a soak in the onsen overlooking the beautiful natural scenery of the Northern Alps after a day of play in the snow?

What else is great about Hakuba? Their wide range of accommodation - hotels, B&Bs and private rental accommodation, you will be spoiled for choices. Currently, I am particularly interested in the ski-in ski-out mountain cottage with its private onsen. Despite its increasing presence of the international scene, Hakuba still retains a slightly reminiscent of the atmosphere of old Japan. You can still find old temple, old markers of the salt road, the museum and good old Japanese soba restaurants.

 

Hakuba can be reached relatively easily from Tokyo, therefore it is possible for any Tokyoites to do a day trip, but why rush back to the city when all that fluffy snow and hot springs are waiting for you in Hakuba? For me, I am rushing to go back there again in March next year with a group of friends. 

There are several ways to get to Hakuba from Tokyo, the easiest, fastest and most expensive option is to take the Nagano Shinkansen bullet train departing from Tokyo station heading towards Nagano Station. The shinkansen ride costs about ￥8,000 per way. Upon reaching Nagano Station, take the hourly Alpico bus to the Hakuba station for one hour. The Alpico buses run from 8:20am to 7:40pm and on Friday night, the bus run until 9.00pm and cost about ¥1,500 one way for adults. The whole journey is approximately 2.5 hours excluding waiting time.

Taking the Keio Highway Bus from Shinjuku is the simplest, cheapest and hassle-free way to get to Hakuba. The bus fare is ￥4,700 per way and ￥8,330 for return. The Highway bus from Tokyo which takes about 4 hrs to reach Hakuba. Just note that the highway bus from Tokyo does not actually stop in front of the Hakuba train station, but in their own bus terminal which is a 10-mins walking distance from the main train station. You can check out the highway bus on:
http://www.alpico.co.jp/access/express/hakuba_shinjuku/index_e.html

PS. The weather report says 60% chance that Tokyo will get its snow tomorrow. Excited? I am. ^^

Xmas Illumination at Ebisu Beer Garden

Ebisu is the only JR station that is dedicated to a beer brewery. The town has a good mix of old classic European-style building with the newer, taller towers surrounding a huge promenade which is rare in Japan. In winter, the Ebisu Garden Place transformed into a city of light with the annual Baccarat Eternal Lights display, featuring a lit-up walkway towards a big chandelier.

This promenade is decorated with an 8m tall Christmas tree while the whole area is surrounded by lighted-up trees. I am feeling all festive already ^^. The colour theme for this year is the same as the Tokyo tower, which is gold and red.

Since we are in Ebisu, there is absolutely no reason to skip the indoor Sapporo beer house and also the Ebisu beer museum. The beer museum is a must-see and must-try attraction complete with tours and sampling of beers on tap at the Tasting Lounge - yum! Did I mention that the admission is free?

The museum collects its own advertising posters, beer mugs, gift boxes and other memorabilia over the years. You can do a self-tour, which takes between 10mins to half an hour.

But most people come here not only to learn about the beer's history, but to drink the beer at the Tasting lounge. While the beer in the Tasting lounge is not free (one beer costs about ￥300-500 and you can choose between 4 different varieties), it has a nice selection of light food. Our time was well-spent here.  I got myself a honey beer, which was delicious (sorry, no photo of the beer because I finished it before I could photograph it ^^).

This place is also surrounded by awesome restaurants such as the Sapporo beer garden and the Chateau Restaurant Taillevent-Robuchon, outdoor cafes and eateries and a shopping mall, Mitsukoshi but I didn't like shopping at this Mitsukoshi as it is quite a small one.

The bag adorned window

Anyway, it has been a very nice, but very cold night, which didn't pose any problem since my body has been happily warmed by the amount of beer I drank. Cheers!!!

Xmas Illumination at Tokyo Tower

As Christmas is approaching soon, Tokyo has lighted up with its special decoration known as the winter illumination everywhere. Winter in Japan is cold, but it rarely snows (I wish it would do so every year). To encourage people to come out on a cold winter night in Tokyo is to put elaborate and gorgeous light-up around the town.

Tokyo Tower doesn't have a huge over-the-top illumination, but it is classy and tastefully done. This year, the newly renovated upper floors sported a cafe complete with red and gold illuminated ceilings.

I think subtle illumination goes perfectly with the night view. Great place to enjoy a drink and a view without paying an arm and a leg for it.

Nightview of Odaiba

So will you go for a drink at the Tokyo tower?

Autumn in Yatsugatake Highland

I had a little escape from the city to the mountains and this time, I am in the Yatsugatake mountain range. The name Yatsugatake literally means the eight peaks in Japanese language. However, the mountain range of Yatsugatake has more than eight peaks so the word 'yatsu' here doesn't merely means 'eight' but also the nuance of 'many' in Japanese language.

There is a cool legend behind these magnificent mountain ranges. It was said that Mt Yatsugatake was once just one tall mountain, very similar to Mt Fuji and was protected by a god. This issue doesn't sit well with the proud goddess of Mt Fuji. It wasn't long before the two protectors started to fight over the two mountains' height. Each insisted that one is taller than the other. The Buddha who was the judge of this conflict created a gutter between the two mountains. He then pours water into the gutter and the water flows from Mt Yatsugatake to Mt Fuji proving the former being the higher one. The goddess of Mt Fuji was angry to be proven wrong and struck Mt Yatsugatake multiple times with her magic long stick till the mountain become a chain of jagged mountains range as we see today. I think the goddess may have done a good deed by making Mt Yatsugatake and its surroundings more stunning.

Although this area used to be a wasteland, but today, it is a popular summer resort known for its natural surroundings, wildlife and greenery. One can enjoy bird watching, cycling, hiking and even star gazing as it has been found that the terrain of this place offers wide flat land which allows a 360 degree view of the skies. Nobeyama is the place for some serious star observation. Some hotels also have its own telescope for its guest.

Walking around this area has been therapeutic with lots of quiet pathways to walk and very few cars. I guess this place is busy, mostly during the summer. Also, due to the infrequency of public transportation in this area, less people will travel here after the peak season. It is absolutely a wonderful place for nature lovers, as the cabins of Yatsugatake are located in the woods with awesome views.

Like I said, this place is a heaven for those who love walking and strolling and the landscape is best to savour if you are not rushing for time (why would you while in the mountains?). Probably, it is a good idea to travel with a car as you will be able to drive on one of the most scenic roads, the Yatsugatake Kogen Line Road. The best time is of course in late Oct till Nov.

If you are travelling using the public transportation like me, then, it is wise to check the schedule for the train and bus before you head out.

The JR East Koumi line is also known as the Yatsugatake Kogen line is one of the most scenic train lines in Japan. The line starts from Kobuchizawa station in Yamanashi-ken and ends at the Komoro station in Nagano-ken with Nobeyama station being the highest JR station in Japan. This train ride is a must-ride train ride in Japan.

Just bring your camera or your favourite drink on board, sit back and enjoy your ride through the mountains of Yatsugatake.

Our cabin lodging in the mountains

Barbequeing our mushrooms as snack

Where is your favourite autumn spot in Japan? 

Autumn in Shosenkyo Gorge

This is my first time visiting the Shosenkyo Gorge and I must say that it is really worth the early morning rush in Shinjuku station.

The gorge is gorgeous that you can't stop clicking on your camera and it is also pretty well-known spot for viewing the autumn leaves so the tracks are pretty beaten by the tourists. But don't let that discourage you, it is really one of Japan's most beautiful places with a gorgeous waterfall, winding river, lofty cliffs and lots of interesting odd-shaped rocks.

It is a pleasant and easy walk along a 4km trail from the Sentagaki Waterfall following the Arakawa river.

I started my walk from the top, the Shosenkyo-takiue bus stop （昇仙峡 滝上バス停), and made my way downward the gorge. There is a cluster of souvenir shops that sell crystal rocks, wine and cafes near the bus stop.

From Shosenkyo- takiue bus stop, it is about 10mins walk to reach the Sentagaki Waterfall. The water is so clear and looks so invitingly cool (I bet it is very cold!). Luckily, it is not summer now because I will not hesitate to jump into that cascading waterfall.

While most people only walk the most popular section of the gorge which begins at Sengaｔaki Falls and stops at Green line Shosenkyo Bus stop (グリーンライン昇仙峡バス停) but I suggest that you continue walking downstream to Tenjinmori bus stop (天神森).

The trail continues on, weaving along the stream surrounded by unique-shaped rocks offering plentiful photography opportunities. No matter where you turn, you are bound to see something interesting to photograph, whether is the river, the cliffs or the tress.

Everything is so beautifully blended in that you just have to experience this place yourself and I can assure you that you will not be disappointed.

For me, breathing in the fresh air and be surrounded by the beautiful scenery is absolutely heaven.

To get to Shosenkyo from Shinjuku station, take the Super Azusa (スーパーあずさ) or Azusa (あずさ) trains heading towards Matsumoto (松本) to Kofu station (甲府). The journey is approximately 1 hour, 20 minutes.

For other ways to get to Shosenkyo Gorge, you can refer to this chart from JR East.

Once you reach Kofu station, take the Yamanashi Kotsu buses from the Kofu Station South Exit Bus Terminal 3. You can choose your bus stop according to how far you want to walk back down the gorge.

From Kofu station to Tenjinmori Bus stop, it takes 30 minutes (570 yen) and to Shosenkyo-takiue Bus Stop, it takes 60 minutes (870 yen).　There are plenty of maps to guide you on the gorge which can be found here from the Shosenkyo Kankokyoukai (昇仙峡観光協会）.